When added to the recent large increase in the number of Pending sales contracts this bodes well for a much stronger market overall.

Everyone (except me) is telling you to just take a 30 year fixed mortgage.

 I’m saying that may be true for a lot of people, but is not true for the majority.

Q1. Are interest rates on 30 year fixed mortgages at all time lows? YES

Does this mean that everyone buying or refinancing should get a 30 year fixed mortgage? NO

Q2. Are interest rates on 5 and 7 year fixed rate ARM’s also at all time lows?  YES

Q3. Is the interest rate the same on all types’ of loans? NO

The rates on both 5 and 7 year ARM’s are substantially lower than the 30 year.

Q4. Is the difference worth bothering about? YES

Take a $300,000 30 year fixed mortgage at 4.0%. Payment is $1,432/m

Take a $300,000 7 year fixed ARM at 3.75%. Payment is $1,389/m. Savings after 7 years $3,162.

Take a $300,000 5 year fixed ARM at 3.5%. Payment is $1,347/m. Savings after 5 years $5,100.

Q5. If Bob and Alice are buying their first home and plan to start a family after 3 years is, it likely that the nice little 2 bed, 2 storey townhouse they get will suit them for the next 30 years? NO

Q6. Would it be smart for them to take a 5 or 7 year ARM and save thousands of dollars which will be useful when they inevitable move up to the detached house with a garden when the children come along. YES

The golden rule of mortgage selection is that one size does not fit all.

Your mortgage should be the one best suited for you at this time in your life and considering your future plans and expectations.

IF YOUR LOAN AGENT DOES NOT ASK YOU HOW LONG YOU EXPECT TO BE LIVING IN THE PROPERTY THEN THEY CANNOT ADVISE YOU WHAT WILL BE THE BEST LOAN FOR YOU.

John and Dave are as close to identical as is possible without actually being twins.

They both work at the same company, make the same money, had saved up the same 20% down payment for  a nice 2bed 2 bath condo in the same favourite complex for up to $250,000.

Problem was that only one unit was for sale back in April. Being good friends they agreed to spin a coin to see who got to buy 1st. John won and bought that one, and Dave waited for the next listing to come up.

That duly came up in late May and Daves offer of the same amount that John had paid was accepted.

They both got their 30 year mortgage for the same amount from the same Broker 6 weeks apart.

What’s interesting here is that for the next 30 years John will pay approximately $75/month more than Dave. This is due entirely to the drop in interst rates during the time between the 2 purchases.

Obviously John will hope to refinance to a lower rate as soon as possible but there is no guarantee that will be possible.

The most interesting part of this story is that due to the continued econonmic chaos it world wide Bond Markets mortgage interest rates are now even lower that Dave got, and are now at 40 year lows.

My message here is to pay more attention to how mortgages really work , and consider whether the 30 year fixed really is the best for you. For 90% of all buyers it is not.

If anyone would like to know how to make this decision just send me an e-mail and I’ll be happy to explain.

0. Prices in our Valley have pretty much stabilized.

0 Interest rates are at all time lows.

0 There are multiple 1st Time Buyer programs from Cities, Countys, State, and Federal Governments. These can provide down payment assistance, and significantly reduce the cost of owning.

If your answer to my 1st question is negative then the answer is probably NO NO NO.

If you believe that prices are going to drop further and you plan to wait and buy at the bottom, please let me know how you will be able spot that bottom before it has already happened.

To provide a Lender with an independent opinion on the probability that a possible Borrower will pay a Loan as agreed.

How is the score determined?

By looking at the history of payments on previous debts and developing a numerical SCORE which reflects that history. For example:

A score of 800 or more is EXCELLENT. Lenders compete for your business.

A score between 700 and 799 is GOOD. No major problem getting a Loan.

A score between 640 and 699 is POOR. Will pay higher interest rate for a loan.

A score below 640 is BAD. Very difficult to get a Mortgage at an acceptable rate.

NOTE. These examples relate to Mortgages. Other types of Lenders will have different score standards

What exactly is FICO?

The Credit scoring system developed by the Fair Isaac Co and used by the 3 major Credit Bureaus, EXPERIAN, EQUIFAX, and TRANS UNION. Each of these interprets the data slightly differently so produces a slightly different score.

What is MOST important in producing the score?

35% is Payment History. (Do you pay on-time, any Bankruptcies, foreclosures, debt Judgments etc?)

30% is Amount Owed. (Total amount owed as a percentage of credit available.)

15% is Length of Credit History. (Old debts are better than new debts.)

10% is New Credit. (Too much is a Negative.)

10% is Type of Credit. (Credit Cards, Store Cards, Mortgages etc.)

Where can I learn more?

www.MyFico.com is the Public information site for the Fair Isaac Company.

BEWARE of Credit Repair/fixing SCAMS. Anyone who wants money up front should is probably a SCAM.

FANNIE  MAE owns a good percentage of all Foreclosed homes (R.E.O’s) in todays market, and for many reasons they are more agressive in trying to get them sold.

HOMEPATH is the fantastic program they have developed to make this happen.

HOMEPATH MORTGAGE allows ANY Buyer (not just 1st timers) to buy a Fannie Mae owned house with:

0 LOW DOWN PAYMENT. 3% which can be from Savings, Gift, Grant (see CHP at http://mccordrealtyservices.com/wp-admin/post.php?action=edit&post=542 ) or virtually any other source.

0 NO LENDER REQUESTED APPRAISAL.

0 NO MORTGAGE INSURANCE (P.M.I.).

0 EXPANDED SELLER CREDITS FOR Closing Costs.

0 FLEXIBLE TERMS i.e. 30 yr fixed, 3,5,7, Year Adjustables etc

o O.K. FOR PERSONAL OR INVESTMENT properties.

0 VERY FLEXIBLE CONDO REQUIREMENT (more so than FHA).

IN ADDITION

There is the HOMEPATH RENOVATION MORTGAGE which is designed for properties needing moderate renovation work. As well as all the benefits of the regular HOMEPATH  progran this provides up to $35,000 cash for Repairs and Remodelling.

This amount is added to the regular mortgage based on the value of the property once the work is completed.

Any active Buyer should be sure to check any available houses covered by the HOMEPATH Programs.

For more information contact me at bmccord@rwnetwork.com or scroll down the the next item here.

How about a mortgage loan program that GIVES you up front 3% of the price of the home you want to buy, and that:

0 Never has to be paid back.

0 Is NOT limited to 1^st time buyers.

0 Works with FHA and V/A loans.

0 Down to 620 credit scores.

Here’s a simple example:

Tom and Jenny earn $6,300 per month between them, and over the past year have saved $5,000 toward the down payment on a house they love priced at $300,000. Therefore the lowest possible down payment allowed is 3.5% of that price i.e. $10,500

Add in reasonable closing costs of 1.5% ($4,500) and they are about 2 years away from being able to buy.

Using the CHF program they will receive a grant for $9,000, add in their current cash of $5,000 and they are Ready to Buy right NOW.

I think this would qualify as good news for Tom and Jenny, and  many other wanna-be homeowners in similar situations.

If you would like more information contact me at bmccord@rwnetwork.com or http://www.nhfloan.org/programs/CHF_Platinum/Guide_CHF_Platinum.html 

For example:

Tom has a barely o.k. 68O FICO score but makes a 30 day late mortgage payment. It will take 9 months for his score to get back to that level assuming no more late payments.

Dick has an good 720 Fico and makes a 30 day late payment. It will take 2 ½ years to get back.

Harry has a very good 780 FICO but after a 30 day late pay it will take 3 years for him to get back to that level.

The financial costs of  lower credit range from being unable to get any loan, to paying a higher interest rate and higher fees for anything below 720, finding it virtually impossible to get any loan below 640.

The moral is of course to pay your bills on time at all times.

NOTE: Getting and maintaining good credit is a greatly misunderstood process with mountains of free but inaccurate advice. I can strongly recommend Ken Strey kstrey@creditlinei2.org for pretty much anything related to your credit.

Beginning Jan 2010 Silicon Valley Counties (North Santa Clara and Southern Alameda) sales prices have stabilized and some areas are now seeing small increases.

Apart from this being a normal process indicating the last stages of any financial cycle, it has been significantly driven by 5 major sources:

1. 1^st Time Buyer Tax Credits which ended mid 2010.
2. Extension of FHA and V/A maximum loan limits for High Priced Zip codes.
3. Historically low interest rates.
4. Huge increases in the number of 1^st Time Buyer programs from Federal, State, County, City, and Employment specific sources. These continue to increase and improve.
5. Major reductions in Bank Owned (REO), and Short Sale properties coming to market as Banks have beefed up programs designed to keep people in their homes where possible. This has allowed more normal conditions to have control of sales prices.

NOTE: I’m only describing my local Market here in Silicon Valley. I know conditions in other areas have been, and continue to be hit worse than us.  

                                                             ____________ — _______________

Hello James,

        You are obviously doing a lot of homework yourself, as I would prior to deciding on alternate strategies for a medical problem. However, in both cases accurate information is required in order to make the optimal decision.

I believe you have reached the point of needing accurate current data, placed in its correct context, in order to decide how to proceed.

For example, let’s look at the scenario you described in your question.

Purchase price – $360,000

Loan $288,000 – o.k.

20% down – o.k. but maybe not the best choice, as you are already aware.

6.00% interest – Wrong. Worst case is 5%. (A $200 per month difference in payment)

Property Taxes about $300 per month – Wrong. On $375,000 will be $390:63 per month. A $90:63 difference.

Hazard Insurance $100/m – Wrong. $60 per month is a good estimate. A $40 per month difference.

Just these few differences would allow you to buy up to $400,000 for the same monthly cost. This takes you into the Piedmont High School district with its much superior education system.

You’ve taken the time to build your knowledge and vocabulary well. Now you need real facts and numbers in order to become an educated buyer in a market place where getting it wrong can be very expensive.

I’m not going to base important decisions about my health on “free” research and advice from the Web. I want the alternatives to be explained by a professional, and specifically as they apply to me, not some mythical Mr. Average.

I suggest you take a similar approach and hire a Realtor who will explain the options available to you, and help you understand the pro’s and con’s of each one.

Sorry if this seems “preachy” but I feel very strongly about the mass of incorrect and misleading advice and information being spread throughout Radio, T/V, “News”papers, Magazines, and the Internet. These sources are not interested in supplying information relevant to you and your situation. Their sole motivation is to sell advertising.

Why not hire your own professional who can advise and inform you based on your unique circumstances, at this specific time, and with regard to your medium and loan term plans.